Travelling

Riding high in Bolivia, a moto adventure through the heart of South America

Bolivia

In the heart of South America lies a country of unparalleled beauty and diverse landscapes—Bolivia. A nation that captivates the imagination with its lofty Andean peaks, expansive salt flats, and dense Amazonian jungles. For those seeking an adventure off the beaten path, traversing Bolivia on a motorbike offers an unparalleled opportunity to immerse oneself in the stunning scenery, rich culture, and adrenaline-pumping challenges that define this remarkable destination.

The Unforgettable Landscapes:

Bolivia's topography is a testament to nature's creativity, and a motorbike journey is the perfect way to explore its contrasting landscapes. Begin your adventure in La Paz, the world's highest capital, perched at an elevation of over 11,900 feet. From there, the journey takes you through the high-altitude deserts of the Altiplano, where snow-capped peaks and vast plains stretch as far as the eye can see.

Navigate the winding roads through the majestic Andes, passing through valleys and canyons that seem to touch the sky. Witness the surreal beauty of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake globally, where indigenous cultures have thrived for centuries. As the scenery evolves, you'll descend into the lush Amazon rainforest, a stark contrast to the arid landscapes of the Altiplano.

The Death Road Thrill:

No motorbike adventure in Bolivia is complete without tackling the infamous Death Road. Carved into the cliffs of the Yungas region, this narrow and winding route was once considered the most dangerous road in the world. Today, it's a magnet for thrill-seekers, offering an adrenaline-fueled descent through dense jungles, steep drops, and cascading waterfalls. The Death Road provides an exhilarating challenge, coupled with breathtaking views that reward the daring traveler.

Cultural Immersion:

A motorbike allows you to venture into the heart of Bolivia's indigenous communities, providing a unique and immersive cultural experience. Cruise through small villages where traditional customs and colorful clothing tell the stories of ancient traditions. Stop at bustling markets, where the aromas of local cuisine mingle with the vibrant sounds of daily life. Engage with locals, share stories, and gain insights into the rich tapestry of Bolivian culture that is often missed by those confined to more conventional modes of transport.

Salar de Uyuni: A Surreal Playground:

A highlight of any Bolivian motorbike journey is the otherworldly Salar de Uyuni, the largest salt flat on Earth. Stretching for over 10,000 square kilometers, this vast expanse of blindingly white salt creates an optical illusion that blurs the line between earth and sky. Riding a motorbike across the Salar during the dry season provides an almost Martian experience, with the flat expanse stretching endlessly in all directions. In the rainy season, a thin layer of water transforms the salt flat into a gigantic mirror, reflecting the sky and creating a surreal visual spectacle.

Challenges and Rewards:

While the allure of Bolivia's landscapes and cultures is undeniable, embarking on a motorbike adventure in this South American gem is not without its challenges. High-altitude plateaus bring the risk of altitude sickness, and the weather can be unpredictable, demanding careful planning and adaptability. Yet, overcoming these obstacles contributes to the sense of accomplishment that accompanies every twist and turn on Bolivia's roads. The rewards of conquering varied terrains, witnessing diverse cultures, and relishing the freedom of the open road create a mosaic of memories that linger long after the journey ends.

I left my heart in Bolivia

Bolivia is a gem for motorbike enthusiasts, offering a thrilling and immersive adventure through some of the most captivating landscapes in South America. From the high-altitude plateaus to the dense Amazon rainforest, every twist and turn of the road reveals a new facet of this diverse and enchanting country. So, rev up your engine, strap on your helmet, and get ready for the motorbike adventure of a lifetime in Bolivia—the land of extremes and endless possibilities.

Bolivia

Bolivia, with its rich cultural diversity and indigenous heritage, has a collection of proverbs that reflect the wisdom, traditions, and values of its people. Here are some Bolivian proverbs:

"Quien mucho abarca, poco aprieta."

Translation: "He who grasps at much, holds little."

Meaning: This proverb suggests that spreading oneself too thin can lead to ineffective results. It emphasizes the importance of focus and quality over quantity.

"Más vale pájaro en mano que cien volando."

Translation: "A bird in the hand is worth more than a hundred flying."

Meaning: This proverb conveys the idea that it's better to have something tangible and certain than to pursue uncertain or risky opportunities. It promotes practicality and appreciating what you already have.

"Más vale tarde que nunca."

Translation: "Better late than never."

Meaning: Encouraging patience and the importance of completing a task or achieving a goal, even if it takes longer than expected.

"No dejes para mañana lo que puedas hacer hoy."

Translation: "Don't leave for tomorrow what you can do today."

Meaning: Urging prompt action and discouraging procrastination, this proverb emphasizes the importance of seizing the moment.

"A caballo regalado no se le mira el dentado."

Translation: "Don't look a gift horse in the mouth."

Meaning: Appreciate and be grateful for what is given freely, without scrutinizing or questioning its value.

"El que mucho abarca, poco aprieta."

Translation: "He who grasps at much, holds little." (Similar to the first proverb)

Meaning: Reiterating the idea that trying to handle too much at once may lead to inefficiency and a lack of meaningful results.

"Ojos que no ven, corazón que no siente."

Translation: "Out of sight, out of mind."

Meaning: Highlighting the idea that distance or lack of awareness can lessen emotional attachment or concern.

"La paciencia es amarga, pero sus frutos son dulces."

Translation: "Patience is bitter, but its fruit is sweet."

Meaning: Encouraging endurance and persistence in the face of challenges, with the promise that the rewards will be worthwhile.

"Camarón que se duerme, se lo lleva la corriente."

Translation: "The shrimp that falls asleep is carried away by the current."

Meaning: Advising against complacency and the importance of staying alert and proactive to avoid being swept away by life's challenges.

"Cada loco con su tema."

Translation: "Each fool with his own theme."

Meaning: Acknowledging individual differences and preferences, suggesting that everyone has their own unique interests and perspectives.

These proverbs offer a glimpse into the cultural wisdom and values that have been passed down through generations in Bolivia. They reflect the importance of practicality, gratitude, perseverance, and an appreciation for the richness of life.

Sneaking the bike out of Peru

Finally I did it. Can’t say it was easy, but I did it. And now I am safe, my bike too.
Here’s what happened in a nutshell.
After my crash in Peru, the border officers impounded my bike ignoring all my requests for an extension of the permission for the permanence of the bike in Peru. Yes, this country is very complicated. So, I decide to go back to Peru, steal my own bike and take it out of the Country.
I tried first to take the bike out through Chile but I came across some crocks who tried to steal my money and my bike, I left them in disappointment being much more smarter than them. Nice try guys, but I’m Italian and you are not..
I went then on the north, always careful not to get caught by the police, there was an arrest warrant on my bike, arrived to the border with Bolivia and after three days I found a good smuggler who took my bike on his small boat and cross the Titicaca lake till Bolivia then to La Paz on a truck.

Protests in Peru, 75 people died on various riots,

The bike is out of Peru, first goal achived.
New step was to have the exit stamp on my passport which was also a big challenge because the borders between Peru and Bolivia are closed due to the protests here in Peru. I was noticed by some locals that one small border will be open on Sunday and only for the truckers so I’ve been there the very first Sunday with my best disguise as a trucker (don’t laugh at me) and with the help of some dollars I was able to achieve the exit stamp from Peru then the entry stamp from Bolivia. Bingo!

Now, how to have the bike’s paper? I made some research then I discovered that between Bolivia and Brazil there is an easy border where you can easily cross and have the entry paper for the bike. So cool!
I literally flew there on the bike, always being over careful to the police on the road (in Bolivia my bike has no documents), Bolivian police is so corrupted, they’re really good at scamming bikers, they got the A+ squad on shaking down drivers for money but actually reducing real crime, not so much; I crossed to Brazil, parked safely my bike and walked back in Bolivia.. the immigration paperwork slipped easily then I crossed again to Brazil where I “gain” the paper for the bike! Brazilian are just the best, I love this country.

Guys, let me tell you that this adventure was one of the hardest I’ve had. I came across many challenges where many would throw the towel. Now I’m sipping margaritas in Morocco with my wife and the Peruvian police is still looking for me.. Priceless.

Dear Peru border officers, you will win the next time.
Ciao.

Discovering Scotland

There is no doubt that Scotland ranks amongst one of the top destination in the world for our biker tribe. Scotland has everything. Twisty roads! Breathtaking scenery! Ever-changing geography!

Scotland shocks you with its friendly people, the whisky and the beer, castles and rich history. 

In the whole month that I was in Scotland, I had the opportunity to visit it all, starting from the east coast and zigzagging through the country, sometimes (I would say really often) I got lost and I must say that it was one of the most beautiful part of the trip.

In the first few days of traveling, I visited Edinburgh with its extraordinary architecture, the capital of Scotland is certainly among the most fascinating cities in the United Kingdom, with its Gothic style buildings and cobbled streets of the old town. Leaving the fascinating Edinburgh behind, I visited the Cairngorms National Park which has a labyrinth of streets offering breathtaking views. There are also small hotels and B&Bs but as usual I preferred camping to be more in contact with nature and fully enjoy the journey. The weather changes constantly, in Scotland forecasts is not easy, you live day by day.

The 1290 SuperAdventure S proves once again to be the perfect bike for trips like this, safe and reliable dancing among the thousand curves of the famous Highlands, a true paradise for the motorcyclist.
The east coast is magnificent with wonderful views of a country to be discovered.

Arrived to the north, at the famous John o'Groats point, I continue to the West, both on the indescribable road on the coast, and inland where an unparalleled panorama is conquered from the top of the mountains. Mesmerizing.

The community of motorcyclists, through social media platforms, is huge and some of them suggested some internal roads, I even got some GPX tracks to upload to my Garmin and for a few days I travel without meeting anyone, on unobtainable roads. The large family of motorcyclists is present all over the world, thank you guys, you are amazing!

Some days I make short transfer stages, so I have the opportunity to test the Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC) which gives greater safety in some sections by maintaining the right distance and adjusting the speed, this bike is amazing indeed.

The west coast is the most indented and probably the most beautiful and wild and gives me the opportunity to often camp near the sea. It is extraordinary to discover the small local family-run restaurants, the genuine food and above all the extraordinary friendliness of the Scots. Time seems to stand still up there.

The visit to the Isle of Skye is mandatory, the history, beauty and nature give it a particular and unique character. A well-organized system of ferries allows you to easily reach other islands such as that of Lewis of indescribable beauty.

with great luck I I photographed this owl at very early morning

In so many years of travel I am really happy to still be able to be surprised by the beauty of places like this. Scotland is a destination to be included in the bucket list of every motorcycle traveler, it is surprising in everything. The best time to visit is between June and September, the temperatures are acceptable and the amount of rain is contained. The minimum period for a motorcycle trip is 2 weeks (preferably 3). The reception facilities are very well organized, there are also many campsites with the possibility of wild camping which I prefer .

Days rolled up into weeks that then pass quickly and the month has practically flown by.

I left the wonderful Scotland and entered Wales on a ferry to Ireland. 

The journey never ends.

In Morocco one more time

You already know that Morocco is now an addiction to me so I’m actually travelling here again on a very extreme adventure trip on my KTM 690 enduro R.
Morocco is the essence of everything I love about travel.
Started from Tangier and crossed zig zagging the country till the Algerian border, went in the Atlas mountains and played on the Merzouga sand with the infinite engine of my 690R. I travel most of the time on a single track which is absolutely the funniest way to enjoy the nature and the real spirit of adventure.

Most of the time I end up in the middle of notwhere, sometimes I find small villages where I can have delicious food and maybe spend the night in a family hotel for less then $20 (breakfast included). Is common here to be hosted by families, see this post. Moroccan are super friendly and always ready to give some help in a way or another. In this 5 weeks trip I had flat tire twice, an out of gas (on a remote mountain) and minor problem on the bike due to a small crash in the sand. Have had all the proper assistance from locals and… some free tea. I love to interact with locals which is for me the best part of the journey. On my 10 years on the road and 72 countries I had so many experiences with locals and let me tell you, people are amazing all over the world. I’ve had only good experiences (excluding a couple of occasions where I got into trouble, but maybe we'll talk about that in another post).

A flat tire.. that’s a part of the game

Morocco has variety and an exotic feel that has fascinated travellers since long before the modern traveller arrived. Morocco is the dream destination for adventurers. Escape the hustle and bustle of the city and head out to experience the majestic Sahara Desert. Ride and adventure bike through the shifting sands of the tallest dunes of Morocco, marveling at its untouched beauty. I’m in paradise. Wow. Just wow. If you’re a lover of serious adventure riding, Morocco is your place.

There are not many places in the world where you can ride from amazing twisty mountain passes to the best desert dunes in few hours. I enjoyed the breathtaking and inspiring landscape in the Atlas, then head into the Sahara desert where I spent my nights in the desert tent.

Out go gas in the middle of nowhere

Spectacular landscapes, clear skies and… the colours. That’s Morocco.

Oh! Never waste an opportunity to entertain the children

A positive mindset

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Living on the road could be an astonishing experience, but sometimes something go wrong, suffer a theft, puncture a tire, lose your phone, or… crash. When something bad happens, what do you normally do? Do you get stressed out or feel helpless? I did, for so long till the day I discovered that getting mad and not get quickly over it, is just a waste of time.

When something bad happens, I do everything possible not to fall into stress. I don’t focus on the problem, I shift my mindset towards a solution. I learned the hard way that something good can always come from something bad

I broke the chain between Chile and Argentina, nearest village at 60 miles. I slept in a mountain shelter and in the morning I met a guy who invited me on a three days horse tracking. Was fantastic.

Got an accident during my vacation in Italy and forgot to sell my Bitcoins as my plan was.. You can imagine the rest of the story.

I suffered a ligament contusion in my knee while training on a enduro bike and during the physiotherapy I discovered a new Taylor made way to train my legs and now I’m much stronger and with a better posture.

I have several experiences like these. It's all mindset. All perspective. We control our attitude, effort, and focus. If we choose, we can maintain a positive mindset in the face of any adversity.

How much you need to travel full time on a motorbike?

I have been asked so many time on how much does it cost to live on the road. Guys, I take it straight, living on the bike is not free but, to be sincere, money are not the main reason why many don’t travel (we will talk about the real difficulties we have to tackle in another post).
But, the good news is that it would be absolutely affordable and by my personal experience I can say that everybody can do it, only depends on the level of the motivation.
Just ask, what is important to you?

I know several full time travellers, some of them work on the way as Amazon sellers, some are computer engineers and draw codes, some teach English or Spanish or French online, some have kind of rent to rent companies.. I know a web-graphic freelance who makes money on freelancer.com - several SMM find clients on upward.com, the list is pretty long. The point is that there is always a way to make the money you need to travel full time, everything depends on you.

There are three different style to earn on the road:
1. Being financial free, this means that you’ve already built your cash machine and now you live by passive income.
2. You work while travelling, that means that you do something on your journey like sell online, web commerce, IT engendering or teaching something online (webinar, tutorial..).
3. You get a job and work a while, this means that you work, save, travel then you work, save, travel. Repeat.

How much you need to travel full time on a motorbike?
I know a guy in Argentina who use to live with $ 400/month, I know an american girl who spends at least $ 8-10.000 a month. Depends on what you want to do on your journey.
Roughly speaking, you can live with less then $ 3.000 a month, you would spend even less if you camp every night, much more if you love fancy hotels, that’s up to you.
If you are good enough to fix your bike, rewear it from time to time, travel without shipping the bike around the world, you can spend even less.
If you travel in US, then you can find several cheep places where to stay, gas is not that expensive and food is quite good and affordable. South America is super cheep, especially Argentina, Peru and Bolivia. South and East Europe like Italy, Spain or Portugal or are quite expensive, north Europe is very expensive. Africa is super cheep. Australia is mega expensive.
Never travel is Asia, I’ll let you know.
Here a rough example on an average month for a moto-traveller.
Assumptions:
Hotel or camping or tent, average 30€ a day.
Gas, you do not travel everyday, so 20€ a day would be approximately fair.
Food is just 20€ a day, so you won’t get fat!
Bike maintenance you would have some costs (tires, oil, damages..)
Insurance, you must need it, you can spend 50€ a month but a good insurance is a must to have, 300€/month is fair.
Unexpected events, trust me, something always crop up.

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Brazil, I miss you

Cross to Rio Grande

Cross to Rio Grande

During one of my expeditions in South America I visited Brazil where I spent a wonderful couple of months.

Got a punched tyre in the Pantanal

I entered the country from Bolivia (another incredible country), already at the cross border of this extraordinary country you can understand many things, the police high-fives you and in their offices, where your documents are checked, samba or bossanova music spread from the radio.  Brazilians don't speak, they sing.  Brazilians don't walk, they dance.
The hospitality of these people is something beyond all human measurement. They are just incredible, really nice people.

Cooking time..

Cooking time..

I wandered for a while in the southern part of the country visiting the states of Mato Grosso do Sur, Paraná, Santa Caterina, obviously almost all of them riding off road. I camped in the mountains, crossed some incredibly beautiful hills, and went fishing for food more than once. I was just in love with Brazil, everything was extraordinary, the majestic of nature, the easy way Brazilians live, the music. Brazil was truly a great adventure.

Out of gas, again…

Out of gas, again…

I also did a tap in Florianopolis where I took a nice week of vacation parking my motorbike in the underground garage mod the hotel, where after a couple of days an incredible downpour came that filled the whole city and the lake with water  almost completely the garage taking a nice bath to my beloved motorcycle.  I had some serious work over the next few days to clean and dry the filters and put it back on its head.

I went to the Iguazù waterfalls, something unforgettable (see the video below).
Brazil is a wonderful country, with an extraordinary nature and above all people beyond any normality.  I plan to return there soon to visit the northernmost part, I have many friends waiting for me and I don't want to make them wait too long.

Yes, I feel “saudade”.

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Iguazù Waterfalls

Iguazù Waterfalls

Florianopolis beach

Florianopolis beach

Always be ready to change your plan in 20 minute

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The most important things are the relationships you have with the people you love, and the environment you expose yourself to. Always remember that people you spend your time with and places you are in, are much more important that what you do. If you do not like something or someone just say no.
That’s why I’d like to share with you my “20’s rule”. Yes, that’s the magic rule that save you in many different ways.

Every important decision must be made in 20 seconds
Don't let your convoluted, preconceived and belief-based reasoning get the upper hand. Decide by instinct, you will have the least chance of making mistakes.

Always be ready to change your plan in 20 minute.
That’s give you an huge advantage, people are generally indecisive and take a long time to make a decision or change a plan. Be fast, 20 minutes.

Exercise 20 minutes
Do 20 pushups ( for 3-4 series), 20 squats, 20 pull-ups (5x4).. Run 20 minutes, do 20 minutes HIIT..

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More examples: when I find the right camping spot, I set up tent, sleeping bag, I check the bike etc in no more that 20 minutes. In the morning I can leave my warm sleeping bag, pack up my stuff and be on my bike in 20 minutes. Some travellers need hours, I prefer to save precious time to enjoy the nature around, read my book, do some exercises or sip a cold beer.
Same with hotel room, hostel etc. From the bed to the bike, 20 minutes.
If you do not like someone, politely leave her/him in 20 seconds. Cut the conversations, just do it. Own 20 things, be focused on the 20% of things that really matter, repeat something 20 times and you’ll master it, eat 20 grams of protein at every meals.. I can go on hours. Oh man, never forget the magic of the 80/20 Pareto rule! My favourite ever.

Catting time to your thinking system improve your instinct to take a quick decision and, trust your guts, they never lie.

Always be ready to change plan in 20 something.. That’s what I do, and it works.

How long did it take me to write this post? Yeah, you already know the answer.

I do not travel (always) alone

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Central Morocco, found a guy with his bike. One minute and we are friends, and now we travel together for a while. Same old story, we are travellers.
We got lost in the Atlas mountains, central Morocco. But a beautiful berber family hosted us.. here’s a small video of our journey.
Thank you Saad, you rock. Maybe one day we will ride together again, Inshallah.

Tifnit, another Moroccan pearl

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Riding my bike on the desert sand along the south coast of Morocco, 50 miles south of Agadir, I discovered this small fishing and surfer village.
I then decided to stop for lunch here and I met Mohamed, a gentleman who runs a small beach restaurant for over thirty years.
Mohamed made me delicious grilled sardines and a fantastic Moroccan salad which I ate in front of the ocean.
As always, when you get lost you come across wonderful places like this.


Chefchaouen, the beautiful blue

“The special appeal of Chefchaouen goes beyond its prime mountainside location. Travelers are fascinated by the surreal impression it leaves. The facades of its houses are painted blue and white, so that the whole city appears to be drenched in azure.” from visitmorocco.com - and I can’t agree more.

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Chefchaouen is much more than just a pretty face. I spent here a couple of days and it worth every single second, the blue city is something magical. Getting lost in its narrow streets in the midst of the beautiful houses all painted in blue is extraordinary, sipping a tea in the square in front of the casbah is mandatory.

Chefchaouen is a must for travelers and also a paradise for hikers. The surrounding mountains are full of tempting walking trails. Choose any of them and discover an entirely different, remote side of Morocco: the Rif Mountains.

I’m in love with Morocco, that’s not a secret, is the 4ᵀᴴ time here but I’ve never visited this pearl, the "Little Blue City", something incredible.

What is the greatest thing that I can do

Argentina, region of Salta, May 2019

Argentina, region of Salta, May 2019

Most people get up in the morning and first thing they do is check their cell phone, check their text, their WhatsApp, their Facebook, their Instagram. Then they drive to work the same way, they do the same things so they’re in their “Groundhog Day”.
Why don’t you you start your day with this simple questions “what is the greatest thing that I can do today for myself?
Ask yourself that simple question.
Start your day in a new way, don’t be in a program, live free.

Another adventure is coming up

My bike, the KTM 1290 Super ADV R “La Poderosa” is still waiting for me in Lima, Peru, in the workshop of the KTM dealer, Socopur, who I will never cease to thank for the immense help given during Peruvian trip and my accident last January (this post). 
Then came this fucking (or faking is more appropriate) virus and I couldn’t longer resume my journey, so I took the opportunity to take a long vacation here in Italy, have time to fix the broken shoulder (thank you very much my amazing physiotherapists) and do a lot of enduro training with the new 450EXC with some cool guys.
But time is ticking and I need to travel like I need oxygen, and so I go for it before they close down everything in this general madness where the world seems to have lost all forms of critical thinking.
In my garage there is now another KTM, the 1290 Super ADV S “Katy” and now, waiting to be able to return to South America, I have decided to go for another adventure; here my plan for the next three months.

Try to reach Dakar, if this f*****g virus will let me

Try to reach Dakar, if this f*****g virus will let me

The new plan after France and Spain lockdown

The new plan after France and Spain lockdown

I am writing this post from the seat 5A on board a flight that takes me back to Italy, just noticed that France and its gerontophile President has decreed a new lockdown. This changes my plan and I therefore decided to take a ferry in Genoa and head directly to Tangier - Morocco, skipping France and Spain (which I have already visited many times). As usual, I’ll ride most of the time off-road, the Metzeler Karoo 3 are ready and waiting the bike in Genoa where I have the check control and change tires.
I’ll try to keep you all informed on my routes in the hope there is a chance of having a beer together, if you don’t drink beer we can’t be friend!
As you know, I avoid big cities and riding almost always off-road and very often inventing roads.. It's just my style.
I will have to do the RT-PCR test at Covid before crossing any border, that’s the worst part, in the hope that there are no other lockdowns, in this case I will have to stop for a while.
Tips and advises via Telegram here t.me/johnny_nice .
You know I travel light and minimal and for this adventure I decided to go even lighter, thank you Touratech, I love you.
For the occasion, I’ll wear a special Brema suit and… a bit more, but this is a surprise.
I travel alone, as always, but I’ll share a part of my journey with…. surprise, stay tuned

Time is ticking, bike is ready, just few days...

Bolivia in my heart

One of the places I carry in my heart is Bolivia. I can say that I am one of the few to have visited this magnificent land far and wide, in all its different facets. From the Andean mountains to salt lakes, from deserts to the Amazonian side.
Bolivia represents something absolutely unique for its diversity, cultures and extraordinary naturalistic beauty. I spent a few wonderful months in this magical land and I will always carry with me the memories of the beauty of its places.
Finally, a big hug and a warm greeting to my many Bolivian friends, unique and wonderful people.

The magic of Morocco

It is not new that I am in love with that wonderful land that is Morocco. I've already visited it twice with my bike from top to bottom crossing its deserts on a solo motorbike journey and visited its coasts and its magnificent cities and villages.

Last week I decided to take a flight and spend a week in this incredible land and once again be able to savour its culture and its ancient traditions. Had some joyful days guys..
Here are some photos of my days in the wonderful Morocco.

The spider

I was traveling in the north Chilean desert where I spent the night in a small fishing village. The village, if it can be called that, was made up of some shacks made of wood and sheet metal, there were straw mattresses where you could lie down. About twenty seasonal fishermen live there.

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The fisherman Chilean village

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My face when I realise I will survive…

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This is the guy… Mr. Atrax

During the night I felt particularly cold, there is a strong temperature difference between day and night in the desert (just typed dessert then corrected to desert, it’s evident I am hungry…), so I got up to put on the motorcycle jacket; bad news, there was an Atrax spider inside the left sleeve. I didn’t noticed it.
Bad, very bad.
After a few minutes, I began to sweat, chills throughout the body, symptoms of being sick and vomiting. I was immediately rescued by some fishermen who immediately understood what the problem was, the spider had bitten me on the left elbow which was rapidly swelling. Once again, I was in trouble.
The fishermen were so kind and they insist to take me to the hospital, it was essential to take me immediately to the military hospital in Antofagasta where I could receive the necessary treatment. The old fishermen's pick-up was a wreck and did not seem suitable to take me to the 100 miles desert road to get to the hospital.
No hesitation, I decided.  Jumped on the bike and hit the road, God is with me.
Have ridden full throttle praying not to faint and not to fall. I was cold and sweating a lot as I felt the fever rising.

Thanks to some saint in heaven I arrived unharmed at the military hospital where I literally passed out at the concierge. I was carried by arms by some paramedics to a room where they injected me with substances whose characteristics I prefer to ignore.
The doctors once again called me crazy for riding in those conditions and a very lucky guy for arriving at the hospital on time.

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Ready for injection

I spent 2 days at the hospital, the first was terrible, some infinities hours wore on vomiting most of the time. The third day I finally left the hospital, went to a fancy hotel and enjoyed few more days at the spa, deserved.

You all know how positive I am and always try to face any situation with optimism, but sometimes is very hard.

Anyway, as from now you can call me Spiderman.

That horrible day in Peru

24 January, I was in a small mountain village called San Fernando at 4.000 meters above sea level, 9 hours from Cusco and 6 from Abancay. Have spent the night in a sort of dirty attic, in a straw bed, right above the restaurant (if you can define it that way) whose owner was kind enough to host my motorbike. Yes, my bike was parked inside the restaurant, between the tables.. this is also Peru.

A frugal breakfast, quick check on the bike and go, following the call of adventure. Another incredible day is heading out. This is just what I thought.

But my destiny has a different plan for me that day.

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The last picture before the crash…

Along a mountain mule track, at over 4,000 meters above sea level, I slipped on a mud, losing control of the bike and ruining the ground. A stone under the mud hit my shoulder and broke my collarbone.

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Into a Peruvian ambulance with this angel, Sofia, who took care of me all the time since we finally reach the “hospital”.

She was very compassionate and I particularly appreciated that she gave me injections and patiently cleaned the needle of the syringe, they had no new syringes.

Yes, I repeat, this is Peru.

I launched the SOS thanks to my GPS Garmin inReach and after 2,5 hours someone shown up to rescue me. I was totally exhausted, unable to properly walk, I could barely breath.
The first aid was really surprised to see me injured, here people die by falling with the car in the precipices..
After 7 hours in the ambulance on Peruvian mountain paths with very deep ravines (I was terrified on those terrible street) we finally arrived at Abancay where I had X-ray which took 5 hours..
For an européen guy, calling it a hospital was an understatement, I don't know how people in those conditions can be treated. Doctors do not took care of me at all and some chickens in the emergency room helped me make another decision.
I decided to rent a private car and reach a private clinic in Cusco, another 4 hours.

Yes, I’ve drunk some Red Bull..

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My poor shoulder, the bone was totally out of his place…

In Cusco I finally found a proper medical staff, they suggested a surgical operation but, after a day of rest of which I was in great need, I decided to return to Italy and undergo the necessary medical treatment at home.

This guy saved my life, never travel in a remote areas like I do, without a tool like this. If you travel out of urban areas, you have to keep an SOS GPS with you. I use Garmin which IMO is the best but there are several in the market.

Take one. It’a a must!

After some very difficult flights with crazy connections due to the f*****g Chinese virus, I finally landed in Venice, Italy, here my best friend was waiting me at the airport.

Tyson ❤️

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Thank you to the medical staff in Cusco, you are amazing guys.

You have been understanding, humane and very nice. I hope to meet you again but on more pleasant occasions..

🇵🇪 I still love you

Never waste an opportunity to have some fun…

Never waste an opportunity to have some fun…

Some memories from South America

Just came across some pictures I took in South America last year, here’s a short video footage, hope you will like it.

Here the pictures of that expedition.

Discovering Slovenia

Have just spent a week among the beautiful streets of Slovenia and I’m impressed of the numbers of incredible views I’ve found.
I visited Slovenia 5 years ago when I performed my Europe offroad tour (which took 3 yers) but on that occasion I could only see woods, forests and some dirt roads because my goal was to visit deeply all the countries of Europe without touching the asphalt, and I did.
This time was a bit different, I rode the 1290S and… see the pictures and you’ll understand…